It's hard to believe another holiday season has come and nearly gone.
As we look back on another amazing year.
And I just wanted to say merci and thank you for all the inspiration over 2009.
And wish you a very Happy 2010...from Cyprus!
Yesterday was the first snow of Paris. I could see the giant flakes falling from my window as I finished up my last paper, but I had no idea how much snow had actually fallen until I went outside. I probably wouldn't have left the apartment at all had it not been for my final exam period. But I took a little detour via my backyard (pictured above) to take it all in. Gorgeous, and even better was hearing the school kids having an awesome snowball fight off in the distance. The best part, however, is now it feels like the holidays are actually here. I turn in and present my last paper of the semester in a couple hours. It's time to celebrate.
On Monday I was able to celebrate the completion of another big project - the creperie. My friend Lindsey (check out her fun expat blog, Lost in Cheeseland) and I spotted this article about H.A.N.D. in the New York Times and knew we had to check it out. H.A.N.D. stands for "Have a Nice Day" and for me it was like a little bit of Americana - straight out of Brooklyn - that meets Paris. A good burger, awesome interior and great company was the perfect way was to unwind before moving onto the next project.
Even cooler (and trust me, it was *brisk* that day) was the walk to the Metro Palais Royal. Along Rue de Richelieu (the resto is at #39 about a block past Place Andre Malraux) was lined with some of the most creative holiday decorations I've ever seen. Everything was made out of recycled bottles, from the "Christmas trees" to dangling "chandeliers" and suspended garlands. It turns out that the installation was fabricated by DesignPack Gallery - a fantastic design store/gallery space at 24 rue de Richelieu (where you can pick up your own replicas of the decorations, in addition to lots of creative gifts) - with designer Fabrice Peltier. Now just to head back and see it all lit up at night...
Happy Holidays!!
I'm down to my last and final paper of the semester. It's so close, I can feel it. I've been looking at the issues of tourism, specifically as it relates to the issues of representing "culture" in tourism advertising. I chose to look at this print campaign - "Morocco: There are countries that make the soul grow" - that immediately caught my eye when I first saw it pop up in Paris metro stations earlier this fall, as a case study. Without sharing any of my thoughts on the subject, as of yet, I'd like to invite you to share any of your initial thoughts, reactions, comparisons, points of reference, etc. in the comments below. Does it make you want to plan a trip to Morocco now??
{The campaign was created by BDDP Unlimited, a Paris-based creative agency. You can find the accompanying Visit Morocco tourism website here.}
Today was a big day. After three months of waiting, I finally became legal in France, and I have the x-ray to prove it. Just another adventure in the joys of French bureaucracy. The process started back in August when I went to get my visa at the French consulate. No joke, that process was about ten times harder than actually getting into grad school. The "system" is completely dated and some simple signage would do them wonders, but no, we're dealing with the French here, so that would be too easy. Really I'm convinced that the French are firm believers in "survival of the fittest" and this is how they're able to weed out the duds.
My special "invitation" for my x-ray only occurred after loads of paper work, filling out even more forms and then figuring out how to prove I actually live here (my 10m2 apartment isn't worthy of a mailbox!). It was good I was as "nervous" about taking my London trip as I was, seeing as I was given a whopping 3 working days notice for my appointment that I was scheduled for 9:30am this morning. Actually, conveniently for me, it was scheduled in the middle of one of my final "exams" so I got out of listening to about 15 presentations, and instead could laugh at the wacky world the French government was about to send me through.
I arrive 10 minutes before my appointment and hand over my form to the woman at the front desk and was told to go have a seat. Having a seat became the theme of the morning. As I sat there I couldn't help but notice the poor choice in keylime green wall color, and can't help but ponder why ever doctor's office in the world strives to be the tackiest place on Earth. France, I thought you'd at least rise above American standards with your design sensibilities. Or maybe you just figured that you'd have a lot of Americans coming through your doors, and you wanted to make them feel more at home.
Then I was ushered into the next room, where I was told - you guessed it - to have a seat. The chairs here were metal chairs, kind of like some you'd see in the metro, except for the fact that much wider. Was this the French way of saying, we know you foreigners, you're all fat!? Then when the doctor called me in to the first room, he takes my height (never mind the 2in heals), weight (clothed), and asks me if I'm pregnant! Non! Is he trying to suggest that I've eaten a few too many patisseries since arriving in this land? Then I realize that it's because of the x-ray machine, and I'm sent back to... go have a seat.
The next room is a bit reminiscent of going to the county fair. I couldn't help but feel a bit like livestock when I was practically pushes into the small changing room. The woman in French tells me to take of my clothes [top only] and wait there. I needed the English translation and she was annoyed with me suggesting "what don't you get?". Nope, I heard heard her right the first time. I was about to have my first peep show in Paris. And my door opened and it was me the x-ray machine, and the two [female] technicians. Deep breath in, and I was done, and ushered back into my stall to put my clothes back on. Step two, and I'm realizing this experience is not nearly as amusing for men as for woman. And, I go have a seat...
The final room is one-on-one with me, the doctor and x-ray. French doctors often get a bad wrap for being cold and distant (sure, blame it on the socialist system). And given that I'm at a center that sees a windmill of people everyday, I didn't have high hopes for this step. But I had the loveliest doctor of all. When she got to the question "do you drink alcohol? " I responded oui, with a smile. Du vin? she asks. Oui. I found it all quite endearing, and we were able to have another moment when we got to a similar question if I eat well and have a good appetite. Bien sur, j'habite en France! So not only did I get a clean bill of health, but I I did it all en Francais, and made it to the next, and final stop - but not without being told to have a seat two more times.
At the last stop, I pulled out my passport and handed it over to the woman behind the desk. As she pasted in my brand new "carte de sejour" inside she had me lick my 55 Euro stamp I was told to bring with me. After that entire escapade, I must admit that I was a bit disillusioned to be told to paste it on a piece of printer paper. Seriously, you make me pay 55 Euros (not to mention visa and consulate fees) and make me stick it onto a piece of paper? I really wish they would have a fake envelope or something just to make me feel better. But, at the end of the day, I'm just glad I have my proper paper work (and don't have this last minute looming medical exam hanging over my head anymore)!
So if French bureaucracy is first meant to weed out the duds, the second role it plays is to bring foreigners together. This process is ridiculous, but something we all have to go through. At the center I ran into two classmates and we all had this strange since of accomplishment. It's a weird process, but something we all bond over. And according to one of my professor's the process has only gotten better over the years (shocking, I know!). In fact, he shared with us my favorite tale of French bureaucracy battles so far: Someone he knows was having trouble with their paper work and went to the office to try to get it settled. The people who work on the other side of the desk are notoriously mean and heartless. This guy just needed his paper work stay in Paris, and the woman at the desk wouldn't have it - until she had a heart attack. Lucky for her, this guy was a doctor, and saved her life. Needless to say, he ended up getting his paper work. So things do work out. . . eventually.
I first encountered Andrew Losowsky earlier this year when I posted about his book, The Doorbells of Florence, where he magically takes beautifully mundane images of doorbells, and writes short stories to accompany them. Losowsky is all about "creating experiences" and in the course of exploring his website, I discovered his "Weird and Wonderful" guidebooks which through fun and creative designs (by local design studio for each city) that ignore the obvious in search of special local recommendations. That's when I knew I needed Andrew to respond to Boarding Pass... {thanks, Andrew!} 
last trip taken: to Lisbon and then the UK
next trip on deck: Spain
one place you would go back to again and again: Lake Atitlán, Guatemala
place you'd most likely recommend a friend go visit: New York
preferred method of transportation: paraglider
place you've never been but dying to go: Japan
place you'd never go back: Miami airport
most memorable trip in 2 sentences or less: Visiting northern Nigeria, and being treated like a rock star in some villages, entirely due to the colour of my skin
how do you prepare for a trip? In a hurry, about half an hour before I'm due to leave
how do you record your travels when you're traveling? Moleskine flexible notebook (blank pages), and on a digital camera
what is your favorite thing to photograph in a new place? Something I didn't expect to see, and ordinary details in people's lives
on an average, how many pictures to you take on a trip? It depends which camera I take. If I only have a point and shoot, perhaps 10 a day. If I take my SLR, it's more like 50.
what's in your "designer travel kit" ? Canon EOS camera, Canon IXUS point and shoot, Moleskine, a few cheap pens
{le cool weird and wonderful guides, designed by Lava, Feriche Black, Silva Designers, Jeremy Leslie/John Brown Media, Murray}
what do you do after a trip? how long after a trip does this happen? It varies. I've done all those [scrapbook, blog, book, slideshow] and more. Following my last big trip, I started to make a one-off magazine to try and explain it all. I haven't finished it yet, though.
favorite souvenir/thing to bring back? A local magazine
Links:
The Doorbells of Florence
Andrew Losowsky
Click here for more creative travelers and designers featured on Boarding Pass!
While the New York Times specializes in their "36 Hours in ..." travel guides, I had to take it a step further for my 28 hours in London. I loved my friends reactions, "what!?! you're back already?" Granted, I would have loved to stay longer, but looming papers and the threat of a French medical exam (whew! I finally got scheduled to go for my chest x-ray next Tuesday - yes, I have to have my chest x-rayed in order to live in France) hanging over my head. But as I ran from class last Tuesday after giving a presentation to the metro to head to Gare du Nord. Can I just remind you how easy train travel can be? Just an hour later I had boarded my train with baguette sandwich picnic lunch in hand. The only flaw in my plan was that I had waited to week too long to buy my ticket, and prices had doubled - so that's my advice to you: buy early when traveling on the Eurostar.
Besides the meager leg room, and the 6-year old across from me who thought my legs were a pole more often than not (he was super cute, so I forgave him), and was an easy, pleasant ride. And just a couple hours later, and there I was, in London. Maybe it's just me, but sometimes I wish these distances were longer, because it's the one time I get to catch up on my book and unwind.
I'm kicking myself now for not photographing it, but my first step onto the Tube and I had the feeling I'm not in Paris anymore. Funny, because looking at the cast of characters around me, I wouldn't have guessed any of them spoke English, but clearly they all did. But really, the the most shocking thing to me was the sheer infusion of color around me. Yellow poles, shiny purple sneakers, bright orange pumps, a white hoodie with bold neon stars. So let me remind you here that Parisians wear 3 colors: black, brown, navy, and maybe, just maybe, they'll venture to a dash of red. I have this game I play where I look at groups of school children (elementary or high school age) and count how many people are wearing anything besides the "big 3." Seriously, the highest number I've ever gotten to is 2! And usually that's just with a muted purple. So COLOR was my big welcome to London.
Not only was my train trip easy, but so was the ride on the Underground. Heck, I even had someone ask me for directions in my first 5 minutes of arriving. And their waiting for me at my final destination was my wonderful friend Despina. And from there it was non-stop chatting and catching up for the remaining hours of my visit. The big joke became that I came to London and she took me to a French cafe. But it was in this capacity that I realized that I live in this very in-between these worlds these days. It's very natural for me to be speaking in English with a friend, and then switch to French when ordering something or talking to strangers. The entire visit I had to remind myself that people speak English here. It was a conscious effort. I even noticed it was an adjustment at the play that night the characters were speaking British English. But by act two it felt natural.
The next morning it was up and adam to seize the day before my return to Paris that afternoon. This 28-hour trip was also poor planning in the fact that Marinos was working night shifts, and so our paths crossed in between his 13-hour shifts at the hospital. But one always needs an excuse to go back, right?
Our morning started with a walk along the South Bank on our way to the Tate Modern for the "Pop Life" exhibit (fun but loud). On the way we stopped by the BFI [British Film Institute], which is one of Despina's favorite places in the city. Next visit I'll definitely have to stay longer than a walk through the space. But it was also the point in my trip that I realized that after my experience working for a theater and for architectures, I think I'm more interested in the space, signage and interiors than what the space is actually used for these days! The same effect happened to me at the Tate. I feel like I'm constantly doing research for my next project (a good thing). That, and maybe I'm just easily amused. After a successful visit to the Tate, re-energizing drink in the top level cafe, and an even more successful visit to their gift shop, it was onto our next adventure.
In my Bollywood haze of a paper I've been writing, I knew I definitely had to take advantage of something London is best known for: Indian food! So were were off to Brick Lane. Despina had never been before, so it was an adventure for both of us. But that's what visitors are for - to give you an excuse to try things you've been dying to but just haven't gotten around to doing. On the way we passed loads of delicious-looking bakeries interesting shops, and even saw a minaret being erected. Now 2:30, we had definitely missed any lunch rush and had our pick of places. So of course we opted for the restaurant that offered a "highly recommended mouth-watering menu." So good.
And that my friends, is how you do 28-hours in London. Click here for more pictures!
What do you do when you're in the middle of finals, have a 20-page paper to write, another 20-pager to re-write, and a creperie design that needs finishing touches in the next week? Why you run off to London, of course. As soon as I learned that playwright, Kwame Kwei-Armah had a new show, Seize the Day, I knew that a trip to London was in the cards for me (even if the timing was less than ideal).
I first met Kwame 4 years ago while working at CENTERSTAGE in Baltimore, when he came over as the theatre introduced America to this talented playwright with his play, Elmina's Kitchen (a play set in Britain, whose themes translated perfectly to the issues facing Baltimore). I can promise you that the play, and even more so, Kwame, touched everyone who worked at the theater that season. And while Kwame heads back to collaborate yet again with CENTERSTAGE this January, I'm stuck on the other side of the pond and knew I had to make this trip to "Seize the Day."
I have very high standards for Kwame after, Elmina's, so I didn't know if Seize the Day could live up to the standards he set for himself. The play - currently on through next week at the Tricycle Theatre as part of the 3-play series "Not Black and White" - begs the question if a charismatic former reality tv star can become Britain's first black mayor. The dialogue is sharp and smart as each character calls out the others' flaws - in a way your friends would - and it delivers, as it hits the audience with a good laugh at the same time. Kwame also has an amazing writing ability to see into the future and make whatever is happening in the here and now relevant to his play. Tiger Woods and this week even the British parliament make the play come alive and ring true. Uncertain about the minimal set, I was quickly persuaded otherwise. From the opening scene (which opened on screen), I thought the visual media projections worked incredibly well. Not only did the medium compliment the story, but it also provided an innovative and very contemporary and forward thinking approach to the media and play.
So needless to say, I loved the play. But there's something I loved even more - the audience. Looking around it was an incredibly diverse house, full of a range of ages and backgrounds. The women in front of me and to my left helped bring every moment more alive for me with their laughs and connections with what was happening on stage. I was in the midst of an energy and engagement I had never experienced before and it was quite magical. It also helped that it's a rather intimate theatre, but as far as I was concerned, I had the best seat in the house. I was in the back, center, and had the ability to see nearly every face and watch their reactions throughout the play (turns out it's something Kwame does sometimes too - sneaks in during the last five minutes to watch people and their body language).
But I left the theatre wondering why this feeling and energy is something I've never quite experienced like this in the States? Is it just more of the culture in Britain to go to the theatre? (vs. going to the theater to feel cultured?). Was it just this play? this audience? this particular theatre? Regardless, I hope it's something everyone can experience one day. Oh, and I hope you can meet Kwame too. He'll change the way you see the world.
If you're in London in the next week, pick up your ticket stat!
{top image via Tricycle Theatre, bottom- hanging with Kwame}
When I first invited the lovely Sam Reitmayer of style/SWOON to participate in Boarding Pass, she was a bit hesitant, reflecting on the fact that she can't recite a laundry list of places she has visited. I assured her that was not at all what I was looking for. I'm often underwhelmed by people who travel to see what they think they're supposed to see, rather than experiencing the mundane or finding their own niches. For me travel is much more a mindset than a checklist of places. In fact, I love that she says her travels are for vacation and to relax - so many people travel and come back needing another vacation! And better yet is that her favorite thing to bring back from a trip is her sanity! So in honor of travel as everything you think it's not, I hope you enjoy today's post! {Thanks, Sam!}
last trip taken:
Santa Fe, New Mexico for a full week. I think it was one of the longest trips I've ever taken. I'm usually not gone for that many days from the office. My parents joined my fiance and I for half the week. A wonderful friend let us stay in their casita. With my parents we did all kinds of touristy things that I have never done in previous trips to Santa Fe. But we also just relaxed and went to the Tesuque Flea Market a lot. It's small but we couldn't seem to get enough of it. We were also lucky enough to be there for Zozobra, a Santa Fe tradition of burning the gloom man. It was wild, the whole town shuts down to burn a 55 ft boogie man with people of all ages yelling "BURN HIM!" - it was pretty wild.
next trip on deck:
I'm headed to New York in a couple of weeks but it's really more of a business trip. Not to worry, it's always so fun so I'll get a good day in of shopping and Christmas windows. My next vacation is to Park City, Utah for the Sundance Film Festival in January...can't wait for that.
one place you would go back to again and again:
If it's a vacation, I'll go again! I love them all. Relax/Spa/Art/Food, Santa Fe : to get inspired and my blood pumping, New York : to get a tan and relax...Dominican Republic? but I even love a little place in Florida called Captiva. It's small, quaint and the sunsets are just beautiful.
place you'd most likely recommend a friend go visit:
Seattle, we just went this summer for the first time and I wish we had stayed longer. There is so much to see and do. Just don't go in the summer when there is a heat wave. No a/c! -- being from Texas this baffled us.
preferred method of transportation:
flying! must be quick and easy, unless I'm visiting a small Texas town which I love to do!
place you've never been but dying to go:
California Wine Country, I know, not exotic but I can't sit still so international travel isn't my fav. Love it when I get there but getting there is my less than favorite activity. I'm a wino and I've been dying to spend a week just toodeling around the wine country.
place you'd never go back:
Can't think of one! I love them all!!
most memorable trip in 2 sentences or less:
This is impossible!! I just got back from Santa Fe (hence the two Santa Fe references above) and it was the first time I had traveled with my parents in years. It was so wonderful to get to experience a place I love with people I love so dearly. And last March I went to Belgium to oversee the printing of a book in Brugge. We worked most of the time we were there (day and night) but we got to have amazing but quick dinners between press checks and the last night there I had truly the most amazing meal of my life. I have no idea how many courses... 10 maybe?? Crazy delicious. The restaurant is called La Tache.
how do you prepare for a trip?
so last minute... I'm terrible. I'll do good to make the plane. Thank goodness I always have good traveling companions...
how do you record your travels when you're traveling?
Photography and then posting via the blog what is your favorite thing to photograph in a new place? stores... I love to explore and shop cool places in new cities and see how they compare to where I live.
on an average, how many pictures to you take on a trip?
Since I started my blog I take so much more gathering content. I used to be terrible about taking photos but now I would guess 300 but my fiance takes a ton and he usually shoots about 1,000
what's in your "designer travel kit" ?
I don't sketch but I do usually have my moleskin and then my camera, Canon Powershot
what do you do after a trip? how long after a trip does this happen?
I blog about the stores I found and the highlights, usually the following week or while I'm there.
favorite souvenir/thing to bring back?
My sanity! and if at all possible I love to pick up something for my house on my travels. Usually something small but memorable.
BONUS: Why do you like to travel? for fun? for adventure? for relaxation?
Newflash - I'm not a travel guru. I would call my traveling more vacations... to relax. I like to take more frequent trips that are easy and stress free so I don't typically travel internationally (There's still so much I haven't seen in the country I live in!!) although I have enjoyed my international excursions when I've been. Taking vacations is so important and I used to rarely take them. We all work so hard it's important to take a deep breathe every once in a while and escape your everyday reality, get rejuvenated and re-inspired.
links:
blog: style/SWOON
Click HERE for more from Boarding Pass!
In this push before the semester comes to the close, I'm doing my best to keep myself sane and balanced. So I picked up my copy of The Sweet Life in Paris by David Lebovitz, that I only put down earlier this fall because there was not a single free minute in my life. Oddly enough, I'm glad I'm just getting to some of the chapters now, because I can appreciate the Parisian life that much better. The best part is whether I'm reading on the metro or in the privacy of my bed, Lebovitz has this wonderful sense of humor and writing style that literally makes me laugh out loud every few pages. He does an amazing job of trying to explain the often inexplicable and elusive Parisian in a way that is like stating the obvious, but it's so true. In fact, he makes mention of a set of publicite [advertising] for the newspaper, Le Parisien that makes fun of these various idiosyncracies. My French friend, Nico, had told me about these ads earlier this fall, so I thought it was high time that I checked them out myself. Pretty fantastic.
* The tagline, Le Parisien: Il vaux mieux d'avoir en journal translates to Le Parisien: it's better to read one than meet one.
P.S. There's a nice little compilation of the ads here.
For years people haven't understood what I do for a living, now people don't understand what I'm studying, and throughout it all, most people don't understand that I truly believe in carpe diem. So inspired by the "Dailies" column that Erin used to run on Design for Mankind, I thought it would be fun to share a day in my life in Paris. Admittedly, it was an extra full day, but at the same time very much in the spirit of my everyday. So enjoy my Wednesday from last week (Nov 25), as I repeat a new variation of the same today.
7:07 AM - Alarm goes off. It's always the goal to get up without snoozing. I do an amazing job this morning convincing myself more sleep is ok. Not only was I up til 2am working on a project last night, but there's no need for yoga today because I'll be getting my exercise later ce soir.
8:30 AM - Out of bed. Put hot water boiler on. Literally step 2 feet and hop in the shower.
{Ok, so this image wasn't actually shot last Wednesday, but the weather all fall has been incredible and sunny like this. The weather is also highly subject to change, and feeling like 4 different days in one.}
8:50 AM - Open all 3 email accounts, flickr, twitter and facebook (yes, I am connected!) and spend the next hour responding to "sneak peek" and freelance/blog related emails. Since I didn't get it finished the night before, this is when I finish up my own blog post of the day. Today it's all about the cross-cultural design firm, Nomad Ink.
11:10 AM - I have to be smart and strategic every time I leave the apartment. Walking down 6 flights of stairs only to discover you've forgotten something is detrimental to the mental health. On really busy days - like today - I'll only come and go once, it means packing for study/school + clothes for dance. But I have to admit that, three months later, despite feeling winded every time I get to the top, the stairs have done done wonders for my legs and ass!
11:30 AM - It's early, but as a logistical thinker, I hate back tracking, and it's drizzling now, so I decide to pick up my lunch. I have about 4 boulangeries I regular, which I like for odd reasons (I admit sometimes the woman with big hair and Dolly Parton make-up can sway me that direction). Today is all about convenience. I'm tempted by the pastries, but instead opt for "sandwich ciabata" with prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato. However, at the cashier, I fall pawn and also order a viennois chocolat. It's essentially a slightly sweeter baguette (not too sweet) with chocolate chips. I like to think of it as a healthy snack, basically because it's healthier than a patisserie! And because I have no self control, I decide to start with my dessert and eat the viennois chocolat on the way to the library (and before I can photograph it).
{what the walk to the library looks like on a sunny day!}
12:10 -3:00 PM - Read about hybridization (as opposed to homogenization when it comes to globalization) and think about how I'm going to apply it to my paper on Bollywood. I admit, I kind of love it.
3:10 PM - Arrive 10 minutes early to class to catch up with my friend Andrea and finally eat my delicious sandwich.
4:50 PM - Head to the metro while checking my iPhone and finding an email that makes my day and makes me stop in my tracks. This is also a good reminder that I need to look up and look at the world around me sometimes. Not only is the lighting beautiful now, but there happens to be some group strike outside the metro (I figured it was either a strike or soccer fans). Oh, how Parisian!
5:00 PM - On schedule and on the metro to go meet Elizabeth and Matt for a drink. Catch up with the world thanks to the iPhone (which has seriously changed my life!) on npr and nytimes apps. I even have enough time to catch up on "The Biggest Loser."
{Pop Quiz: Leaving the metro station, do you take the stairs or escalator? Answer: always the stairs (despite what this image suggests)}
7:00 - I'm in hip-hop world. Sometimes I like to blame the fact that I miss a step on the fact that class is in French, but really it's because I'm not that good! But I've been going to the same studio for 8 years now, every time I find myself in Paris. It's my weekly sanity. Today is one of the rare instances when we're not dancing to Michael Jackson, but it's still fun.
8:45 PM - On the metro for great people watching this time and probably the worst metro singer I've witnessed yet. (I've actually been recording random musicians on my iPhone these days, now just to figure out how to download them, and then what to do with them! However, this woman was too awful to make the cut).
9:10 PM - Realize that I don't think I'm going to be able to make it up the 6 flights of stairs unless I have some food in me so I get off of the metro one stop early so I can visit my favorite crepe man. Besides making a delicious crepe, I also enjoy the excuse to speak French in the English-speaking bubble I live in. We're on a first name basis, so I'm glad Sudha let me take this picture as he made my citron and sucre crepe.
{the Chirstmas lights are on for the first time on my walk home!}
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