La Rentrée

This week it started. La rentrée. August has officially become my favorite month in Paris, despite the closures of some of my favorite lunch spots. But now the calm of the city has already started to be replaced by people everywhere, the buzz of traffic, and actually having to look and wait before I cross the street in my neighborhood. The best US equivalent to "la rentrée" is "Back to School." However, in Paris, as [almost] everyone takes off the month of August, kids and adults alike talk about the looming and dreaded rentrée back into reality. While not quite as charming as the Paris closure signs (see here and here), la rentrée is definitely in the air...

I Charleston Berlin

I think everyone should unplug from their computers and go "Charleston" dancing around their city. This video - I Charleston Berlin with music by Good Night Circus – totally made my day. DANCE!

{Thanks, Daniella!}

The Expat

Over the weekend I found myself at a wonderful picnic along the Seine. As I reflected upon the group – new faces to me for the most part – I realized that Denmark, Switzerland, Spain, Japan, the US and France were represented. And that was just by origin – one of the Danes was getting set to move to Italy. All night my main topic of conversation was paperwork and French bureaucracy. Because despite being different, it's something we've all dealt with, or at least have been close to someone who had to go through it. We all have stories, and it's a bonding point.

My visit to the Préfecture yesterday was a success. I think an angel was sitting on my shoulder when it came to a couple documents, but my dossier is now complete. I was given a récépissé (temporary visa extension) good through late November, and assuming there are no further unforseen glitches, I should have my full auto-entrepreneur visa in the next couple months. As far as I know, all that work will be good for a year. However, after what I just went through – collecting the paperwork was more challenging that writing my Business Plan from scratch – I now am in the system and know the ropes. I could be celebrating my new visa, but after this month, I'd much rather celebrate having my life and sanity back. What a road it's been to become an expat! It is kind of rewarding to know I did it on my own, especially when so many people tell you "get married." We'll just have to wait and see what happens from here...


{Thanks to Frédéric Bocquillon Valente for this photo he took on Saturday night after the picnic! C'est moi in the black dress with the orange bag. I love the feeling of real life passing us by...}

Making a list, Checking it twice

It's crazy to think last year at this time I was off in Brittany and the south of France working as a nanny, and here I am pumping out a business plan in the course of a month (apparently most people take a year or two to do this). Maybe I've been watching a bit too much So You Think You Can Dance lately but my life is starting to feel a bit like a reality show, and I'm down to the final elimination.

This month has been filled with new highs: producing an event + writing an article for a print magazine I really respect, getting to play an extra in a British tv pilot, and picking up wonderful new clients. It's also been filled with challenges: finding a table to rent on a Friday afternoon at 4pm for a Saturday event (and then figuring out how to get said table around Paris with a little help from some fabulous friends), the assignment to write a 20-50 page Business Plan en français in order to get a new visa to stay in my "adoptive" country, and spending hours upon end running around collecting, scanning and printing documents (a half inch worth!) that may or may not exist for me.

Tomorrow at 9am I have my meeting at the Préfecture de Police to present my paperwork and 54-page Business Plan, in hopes of getting a new visa (a true upgrade from my student one - with an estimated 150-200 hours of work on top of an already full work load). The only things to get me through all this have been the wonderful support of friends (new and old, online and off) and a sense of humor. For your own entertainment, the full list of documents I will be presenting tomorrow is below. The finest in French bureaucracy!

• Valid passport
• Titre de séjour
• Proof of housing + EDF bill (or else a housing certificate with a photocopy of landlord’s identity card... but what if your landlords are on holiday all month???)
• Housing insurance
• Birth certificate (certified translated into French for 50 Euros)
• 4 photographs, with a “naked face”
• Last tax declaration (this form took me 2 hours with the help of 2 employees racking their brains as I’m too new in the system to have declared)
• Form #13473*01, completed (this form talks like you're a giant enterprise, which is ironic given this status has a salary cap!)
  
• Declaration of honor of non-condamnation and non-failite in your home country and all countries you have lived in the past 10 years (turns out this is a form they give you, which I was not given on my first visit)
• Presentation of project aka 20-50 page “Le Business Plan” (given a 10 page document explaining expectations in an extremely disorganized fashion - my goal is that the Préfecture wants to hire me after my presentation! I have the goal of winning the award for best designed Business Plan in the history of France.)
• Résume + diplomas (accompanied by their translation in French)
• [insert something that really doesn’t apply to me]
• Attestation from the bank that you are in good standing (I had to submit the request for this with a handwritten note, and it took me over a week and 3 visits to the bank to get it)
• Copy of business rental agreement or “attestation de domicilation”
• [insert something that doesn’t apply to me]
• Declaration of debut of activity as an auto-entrepreneur
• Notification of affiliation as auto-entrepreneur with URSSAF (this was another fun document as it won’t be ready for me for another 3 months)
• INSEE certificate with SIRENE number
• Attestation de régularité after RAM (something else that won’t be ready for another 3 months, so I have some sort of form that works – hopefully!)

What? No medical exams or health documents? Clearly someone didn't come up with an even crazier list! OY VEY! Vive la France!


As for Plan B? Let's hope there's no need for that! Croissez les doigts!!!!

UPDATE: One month after that visit to pick up my "carte de séjour" (the document that validates one's visa), I was informed "as you know, you must return every three months to re-validate this "récepissee" (paper renewal). My jaw dropped. I would not recommend anyone trying to stay in France to do it on this "auto-entrepreneur" visa. As a lawyer type later told me, "What they put you through is living hell and they will do everything they can to de-rail you." Seek expert advice when planning on staying in France.

Bonnes Vacances

While in so many ways I pull off "being French," these days I'm utterly failing at one major French trait: going on holiday on the month of August. Even the lifeguard at the pool was alarmed when I told him I'm staying put this month. (And not only am I staying but, I'm working double time with my upcoming visit to the Préfecture de Police regarding my visa). It's been a good thing that Paris brings the beach to me with Paris Plage, but even that wraps up this weekend. There is already talk of la rentrée when everyone returns from their holiday. I'm hoping that for me I can finally hop away from my computer and breath for the first time in a month. . .
Above 2 images: One of the more creative ways to say our shop is closed, we've gone to the beach.

"We're sorry you came here for nothing, but we'll be thrilled to welcome you on August 30th!"

This sign wreaks of "I have no time to write this sign because I'm about to go on holiday – and a long one at that."

vs. this sign, who someone probably spent more time on it, while they were busy chatting on the phone with a friend...

The "fermerture" signs are also a study in creative use of tape.

A personal favorite: The closed sign right above their sign listing "new hours."

This shopkeeper obviously had enough foresight to know it was going to rain all month.

2 words: Comic Sans.

This person is staying open ended about when they return from holiday.

Click here for more in my "Closed in August" signage portrait series.

Stay Creative

I love that this video by Japanese motion graphics agency, Tofu Design which shares 29 Ways to Stay Creative that individually are nothing out of the ordinary, but together really do help make ideas happen. And you need not be a "creative" yourself to learn from these rules. Here's the whole list in print form too.

Boarding Pass – David Nolan

Today's edition of Boarding Pass is another in the continued look at the creative ways people travel, but with my new sub-interest in the ways people do it while working. Graphic designer David Nolan has been traveling the world – while working (aka location independent) – with his writer/photographer girlfriend Susie Harrison (see her Boarding Pass here). He started his own freelance design agency, Bright Spark Creative in 2007 and for the past two years has been able to manage his workload while on the road. He also has an entertaining blog documenting the odd and funny side of swapping countries every few months called About a Gadabout. Thanks, Dave!

{in London for graphic art exhibition}

home town:
I guess that would be London although I haven't officially had a permanent home for over two years. My girlfriend Susie and I can work on our separate businesses from anywhere that has an internet connection, so take advantage of that by changing countries every three or four months.

where you live now:
I've been living in Paris for about a month and plan to stay for a while longer, depending on what crops up. This is my first extended stay in Paris so am getting to know the city. I love what I've seen so far - it feels like a vibrant maze of streets to wander and get lost in. Any tips from readers on secret gems to discover would be much appreciated! I have spotted a tall, pointy, towery thing that I plan to investigate further. Will keep you updated.

{Checking map in Sicily}

last trip taken:
Brno in the Czech Republic. It was a slightly random choice and we weren't sure exactly what to expect which was part of the attraction. Luckily, we went at exactly the right time (May / June) as lots of events and festivals were taking place. According to locals the rest of the year is very quiet by comparison. If you're into staring at 300 year old corpses (and who isn't?), the Capuchin Crypt beneath the streets of Brno is not to be missed.

{Prodding boat in Sweden}

next trip on deck:
We're enjoying our time in Paris too much to think far beyond it at the moment. However, Berlin is the current favourite for our next jaunt and is somewhere neither of us have been before. The only downside may be that it's heading towards the colder months and when it comes to it, we may be tempted by somewhere with a bit more heat.

{in car hire in New Zealand}

one place you would go back to again and again:
New Zealand's South Island is a place I completely loved. Golden Bay in particular is really as breathtaking as everybody says. Having vast, ridiculously beautiful swathes of land virtually to yourself feels like a privilege.

{Lisbon}

place you'd most likely recommend a friend go visit:
That really depends on the friend and what they would like to experience although I don't think anyone can go far wrong with New Zealand. If they were starting out in Europe and wanted somewhere a bit closer I would recommend Lisbon in Portugal. We stayed there for three months and although it is fairly small, we found lots to explore.

preferred method of transportation:
Given the choice I would always plump for rail travel as it feels like part of the adventure rather than a means to an end. Wherever possible though I'll engage my leg pistons as it's the best way to get to know a new location and I enjoy wandering. The fact that it's free also helps.

place you've never been but dying to go:
I would love to go to Japan one day. I'm obsessed with Anime, Japanese films and culture in general and experiencing it at first hand is on my 'must do' list. After years of immersing myself in Japanese movies I have picked up a few phrases like 'hello', 'thanks' and 'I am a lone Samurai, here to defend your village' so communication shouldn't be a problem.

place you'd never go back:
Rotorua in New Zealand. We had spent the majority of our time on the South Island and made a long trip up to visit Rotorua and I didn't feel it was worth the effort. Perhaps if we had gone there first my view would be different but it paled in comparison to what had gone before. The constant stench of sulphur from the hot springs is nausea inducing after a while. A slightly smelly thumbs down overall.

{Sydney}

most memorable trip in 2 sentences or less:
Our very first trip when we settled on this gadabout lifestyle was to Australia and included Melbourne, Brisbane and Sydney and this sticks in my mind very strongly. It felt like a real adventure and making a success of the location independent way of living was a pleasingly shiny challenge.

how do you prepare for a trip?
I may do a bit of online research on the location but don't want to kill the exploration by knowing too much. We generally have an apartment lined up before we arrive as we find that staying in a hotel / hostel while looking for a place can be expensive and tedious. The key preparation is making sure we have constant access to fast reliable wifi and a plan B if the connection was ever interrupted. Not exotically glamourous but very necessary.

how do you record your travels when you're traveling?
I regularly write my blog which focuses on the weird and hopefully funny.

{Susie attacks a coconut}

what is your favorite thing to photograph in a new place?
Susie is a very talented photographer, so she tends to take the vast majority of the photos. By vast majority I pretty much mean 'all'.

on an average, how many pictures to you take on a trip?
I take very few. The only time I tend to take a photo is if Susie is actually in it so can't take it herself.

{Quality of food can vary from place to place}

what's in your "designer travel kit" ?
I always have my 17" MacBook, an Artline ErgoLine pen and an A3 sketchpad. A3 is a bit impractical for packing but I find that my ideas are inhibited by using A4 for some inexplicable reason. I would also struggle without my Kindle and have developed an inappropriately sensual relationship with this sleek lovely. My mini projector allows me to watch films on the big screen wherever I go and my feelings for it are too intensely personal to discuss on a public forum.

what do you do after a trip? how long after a trip does this happen?
Our trips don't really ever officially end as we move from one country or city to the next. Blogging is an ongoing process and I enjoy having a record of the unusual characters we encounter and the occasional scrapes we get into.

favorite souvenir/thing to bring back?
Before setting out on this adventure I spent a liberating month decluttering my life by selling or giving away everything that couldn't be easily carried. That means I am loathe to pick up any physical souvenirs as we go. Apart from massive swords. I love massive swords. And canoes.

{I managed to bash my head shortly after arriving in Melbourne}

isn't this an expensive way to live?
There can be an assumption that the way we live is like being on holiday and therefore costs a lot. There certainly are elements that crossover with a vacation in terms of freedom but it is the opposite of fitting a full year's fun allocation into two weeks. Being flexible and keeping an eye out for opportunities means that living costs are considerably lower than when I lived permanently in London for example. What thrills me the most is that although this nomadic lifestyle sounds hare-brained - it is actually an incredibly sensible option!

website: brightsparkcreative.com
blog: aboutagadabout.com


Click here for Susie's Boarding Pass, and look to the column to the right to see all past participants!
Boarding Pass is a weekly column exploring the creative ways people travel.

Tour de France: Normandy with Design Mom

For those of you who think having kids means the end of travel, think again. Gabrielle Blair, aka blogger extraordinaire, Design Mom proves that what some may think impossible, is possible. This winter Gabrielle and her husband Ben packed up the entire family – all 6, yes six, kids – and moved from Denver, Colorado to Normandy, France for the year. I've loved following her series on her blog documenting the family's move and new life in France, and a life much different than mine in Paris (her sister Jordan is living in Paris for a year, don't miss her look at the 7th arrondissement!). They're about half way through their year abroad, and I'm so happy to have her today (on my 1,000th blog post!!!) to share a look at Normandy in the Tour de France series.

Image above: Chateau D'O

{Mont St Michel (image by Paul Ferney)}

From Gabby:
The first thing we heard when we moved to Normandy is that it's referred to as the 21st arrondissement -- it makes a lovely and convenient playground for Parisians and locals alike. We adore living here! The countryside offers nonstop picturesque views, rolling hills, and charming villages.

{circular out buildings at Chateau Medavy; right: country road dotted with wild poppies}

Our recommendations: Make a pilgrimmage to hard-to-believe-it-exists Mont St. Michel. Pay your respects at the D-Day Beaches and the military cemeteries. Rent an umbrella in chic Deauville for a day at the beach. Wander the tiny streets of perfectly preserved Honfleur and eat your dinner harborside. Visit Monet's Garden at Giverny and see the cathedral he painted in Rouen. Picnic at one of the dozens of chateaux dotting the landscape — the ones we know best are D'O, Carrouges and Medavy (all within 15 minutes of our home!). Wander the grounds of William the Conquerer's castle in Caen. And all the while, enjoy the drive through the countryside. The fields are ever-changing with wheat, sunflowers and corn. Picturesque livestock (cows, horses, sheep, goats) dot the landscape and wild flowers line the roads.

{entry building at Chateau Carrouges}

{Port of Honfleur}

{American Military Cemetery overlooking Omaha Beach}

{Ranger Memorial and battleground of Pointe du Hoc}

{field of sunflowers}

Normandy is a dairy region, so be sure to sample some local cheese. Try Camembert, Carrouges and Creme de Mont St. Michel. Eat a Tarte Normande made from local apples. Do it all at a slow, calm pace — that's what the Normandy countryside is all about.

{Deauville beach (image by Paul Ferney)}

Thanks, Gabby!
Guest post by Design Mom.
@designmom on Twitter

Don't miss all the posts in the Tour de France series by guest bloggers in France, and the special Paris by Arrondissement guide!

Where to Sleep in Paris

Despite the seemingly glamorous life I may lead on the surface online, the fact of the matter is that at the end of the day, I still come home to my beloved 12m2 shoebox. While every now and then I have visions of having a home with more than one room, or my own toilet, I'm amazingly content where I am. However, the part that I hate in my apartment hardly large enough to hold me, is that it doesn't work for hosting guests. My next line up of visitors is getting ready to pack their bags. I always do my best to help them find an interesting, and affordable place to stay. I've written a couple posts in the past with ideas for places to stay (here and here), but as it's a question that comes up time and time again, I thought it was high time I put together another compilation post. While there are endless places to stay in the city, below are my picks from frugal to fancy, but all with personality and a sense of style.

For the frugalist of travelers:
Couchsurfing – You can find couches around the world to stay - yes, for free! I've never attempted it myself, but my friend Anna did when she was in Paris and met some really awesome people she's still in touch with these days.

For the frugal/social traveler:
Hostels tend to be for the younger/student crowd but can be a more affordable option to stay. While I don't feel like they're the deal they once were, they do have the added bonus of the social component, particularly if you're traveling alone.

Try: Oops!, which claims to be Paris's first contemporary budget hostel (located in the 13th), Vintage Hostel near Gare du Nord or Woodstock Hostel in the awesome 9th arrondissement. Side note: wow, when did hostels start writing their own music with loud videos??

For the traveler who wants to get into the skin of a neighborhood:
Renting an apartment is always my number one tip to travelers. So you may have to make your own bed, but you get so much more space than a hotel, and with the added bonus of having your own kitchen which will safe you a lot of money. I love it too because you get a better sense of how locals live (i.e. OMG, this kitchen/bathroom/bedroom is so small, how do the French do it???).

I recommend starting by looking at Airbnb – they have by far the most extensive listings (around the world), best search interface, a real community and their apartments seem to be more my kind of style than a lot of other sites (design of a website says a lot about a company, and yes, I've read their recent headlines). My friend Grace lists a bedroom in her place on Airbnb, which is a great place to start (and she's a very cool lady).

Vingt Paris is a great local brand of apartment rentals (some more long term), and a great online magazine with happenings in the city. The site is great for searching for price, location, size, etc. They're also good friends of mine, and they have great customer service and can answer so many questions. Disclaimer: I'm doing some design work for them which hopefully you'll get to see soon!

Rue Amandine – I first read about this personalized apartment rental service on My Little Paris and smitten. Beyond the cute style, and cute apartments, Amandine has even created cute neighborhood guides to help you on your stay, and will act as your personal concierge.

One Week Flat is another one I can vouch for, by my French friend Clara. Lots of nice, clean options. My parents loved the excuse to explore a new neighborhood – Arts et Metiers – in May when they stayed in one!

The reality of all Paris apartments is that the good ones go fast. There are tons of other great services. Also try:

• Haven in Paris - Rentals in Paris and elsewhere in France, the HiP blog is a great place to go for more Paris info.
• Perfectly Paris - Gail tweets tons of interesting Paris info on Twitter.
• Paris Flats - It may have been cozy, but my friend Bridget and I were very happy in "Reuilly 1" a few years ago.
• Appartement Blanc - A sweet one my friend Katie found and loved during their stay.
• VBRO (aka Vacation Rentals by Owner)
• Sabbatical Homes (particularly for long term rentals)
• NY Habitat
• Paris Attitude

For the "I prefer hotels, but I'm on a budget" traveler:
There is no shortage of 2 and 3 star hotels in the city, but not all may have a real web presence. For more good budget options visit EuroCheapo.com.

Hotel Stella is a budget, but clean hotel Odeon and the Luxembourg gardens where I stayed 8 years ago. The price was right, especially since most of my time was spent out and about exploring. It's very bare bones, but works if you just need a place to rest your head. Back in the day, the sweet man at the front desk totally won me over.

Hotel du 7eme Art - It's theme is geared towards the love of French cinema, this is another fairly simple place to stay (it's been 7 years since I was last there), but it's location in the Marais makes it worth it.

Hotel de Nesle - A recommendation from my friend Lisa, she always stays here when she visits Paris for the great location, fun themed rooms, central location and great prices.


For the chic, yet practical traveler:
Lately more hotels of interest [to me] have been joining the ranks of urban lodging to make me consider a hotel rather than an apartment. Below are a few that have caught my eye, but I highly recommend downloading the GoGo Paris city guide (also an iPhone app!) where they regularly update new places to stay, in addition to tons of places to visit in the city.

Le Citizen Hotel - A fantastic location along Canal St. Martin, this eco-friendly hotel lends all its guests an iPad during their visit. With only a handful of rooms, you have to book early to score a spot here. Even if you can't stay, go for lunch at Petit Usagi, their mini resto, for a delicious bento box to eat there or for emporter to eat along the canal. Their website is also an incredible resource for getting to know the neighborhood, and their blog has some of the current happenings. Also, for last minute deals and special services follow them on Facebook. Ring the buzzer to enter and say hi to Sophie, the lovely owner, for me!

Hotel Amour - In my beloved 9th arrondissement, you'll be centrally located in Paris, be down the street from one of "la meilleur baguette de Paris" and have a stylish room. Check out my review on Designtripper here!

Mama Shelter - This Philippe Starck designed hotel in the 20th arrondissement may turn some visitors away from it's non-central location, but I think it's this hotel's greatest asset. Also, what could be cooler than having a super hero light next to your bed?

Hotel de la Bretonnerie - For those who are going for a more classic French style or rustic charm, this centrally located hotel in the Marais is a good option, complete with a larger room on the top level good for families or a group of friends. It's been awhile, but my aunt and cousin had a great stay here.


For the 5-star crème de la crème traveler:
This is not the site for you.


Still can't decide where to stay? Consult my Paris neighborhood guide to check out what's happening in each arrondissement.


Share your favorites and tips in the comments below. Merci!

California {Escape}

I'm up to my ears in French bureaucracy these days with my upcoming visit to the Préfecture (a true test of sanity, if nothing else). So today is a virtual escape to the homeland, with two different, breathtaking looks at California. Amazing the kind of projects that are emerging on the web today, just since a year ago.

The top video, A Day in California, took Ryan Killackey and his wife over a year and a half to capture, and consists of over 10,000 images. Below is Colin Ritch's 6-month project capturing LA Light.

{Nomadic} Co-Working

{Loosecubes, international co-working community}

Yesterday I came across an article on Portfolio.com that caught my eye. It opened with a quote by Scott Gerber, saying, "Gen-Y'ers should burn their résumés and shift their focus from getting a job to creating a job if they want to survive the new realities of the economy and unemployment." When you finish grad school they don't really warn you about that weird transition time back into reality. While one of the reasons I left my job in order to take on debt for grad school was that the 9-5 glued in front of my computer at a desk job (even though I worked with great people), wasn't for me. True, I'm probably glued to my computer more than 9-5 now, but it's the freedom of not being chained to a desk which I love. Since graduating this spring, I've gone back and forth between what my next step is, enjoying the freedom of a freelancer in the way I did as a student, but often times feeling societal pressures for a "real job" and a bit more stability (hello, student loan reality check!).

The more I seem to be falling into freelance work (primarily thanks to friends, friends of friends, word of mouth and this blog), the more it seems to be working. In fact, in order to stay in France, I have to make it work, as I'm currently writing a 20-50 page 'Le Business Plan' for my visit to the Préfecture at the end of the month. If anyone would have told me this is what I'd be doing when I came to Paris, I never would have believed them. But seeing Scott Gerber's advice (he's also the author of "Never Get a Real Job") it seems like creating my own job is not as crazy I may have thought.

Yesterday's Boarding Pass with Suzanne Harrison was just as inspirational, seeing the nomadic lifestyle she leads as she's in control of her work – as a photographer – which is not limited by location. She's able to move from apartment to apartment (and some really cool ones at that) thanks to services like Airbnb or HomeAway, not to mention countless independent sites around the world. There's something highly appealing about having the freedom to go anywhere. Once I have a bit more stability, it may be something I venture to do as well.

On my last trip home, I got a good appreciation of working while traveling. It's tough (in the same way that so many visitors come to Paris, and they're on vacation, but you have a job to do even if it doesn't mean going to an office). The concept of "co-working" is a buzzword that seems to be gaining a lot of traction these days and a good way to strike the balance between the best of both worlds of work and travel. Think of it as an apartment rental, but for office space, and more often than not, with really cool people.

In Paris, there is only one that I know of for now, La Cantine. It's an open to the public work space in part sponsored the city. For 7 Euros for a half day or 10 Euros for a full day, you can have access to internet, a table/workspace, and the company of several others around you doing the same thing [psst, they're closed for a couple weeks in August]. They often offer special workshops (I went to one on Open Source Maps), and those that go have been known to connect and collaborate on their own work. In a way it's a community more than a workspace. And yes, if you're popping through Paris, you can just pop in to this one; no reservation required for this one.
The beauty of co-working is that it's found worldwide now. When Alex from Hejorama, a travel site based in Paris, was in NYC he met with the founders behind Loosecubes, an international network of desks for rent, so you can find a workspace while you're on the road. Alex said the days he spent co-working were the most productive he had on his travels – check out this video interview to learn more. You can either join the site as a host (is somebody in your office on sabbatical or you just have extra room?) or a co-worker (someone like me, on the road). Click here for more on how it works, and lots of cool, featured locations as well as new site features on their blog!

The exciting thing is that in this day and age there are so many more tools to allow for the creation of your own thing. Gerber argues that jobs need not be the "next Facebook" or the most exciting endeavor, but with the right tools in place, who says you can't do something creative...

{Images via Loosecubes blog}

Boarding Pass – Suzanne Harrison

Suzanne Harrison is a writer and photographer who travels the world while working. After leaving her London apartment five years ago to move to a farm in Devon, England to start her freelance business, two years was enough and she set off on a globetrotting adventure starting in Australia and New Zealand. These days she's winding her way through Europe, currently based in Paris, with Berlin on the radar. In each location she sublets apartments for a few months at a time, and seeks out locals to help show her the non-tourist sites. I have to say, this lifestyle is sounding more and more tempting these days. I fear today's edition of Boarding Pass is putting crazy ideas into my head – read on! {Thanks, Suzanne!}

{Suzanne also likes to pretend she can play the piano.}

last trip taken:
Before Paris, I spent a month in Brno, Czech Republic. Before that I lived in Lisbon for three months.

next trip on deck:
I don't have any immediate plans to leave Paris (someone find me an apartment! please!). But next I'd like to spend some time in Berlin.

one place you would go back to again and again:
London - no matter how long I'm away from it, London always feels like home.

place you'd most likely recommend a friend go visit:
It depends on the friend. New Zealand for the prettiest things your eye ever did see. London, Barcelona, Melbourne and New York for food and culture-loving types. Overall, Paris is my favourite city.

preferred method of transportation:
If I know vaguely where I'm going, I like the bus for nosy people-watching - I don't mind that it takes longer. Otherwise the underground / metro, or long-distance trains in Europe are amazingly cheap compared with in the UK.

place you've never been but dying to go:
I know everyone says this here, but JAPAN JAPAN JAPAN! I also have hankerings to befriend sloths in Costa Rica and to visit the Tamimi Giraffe Hotel in Kenya, just for the hilariousness of having a giraffe stick its head through the window while you're munching on your brekkie. Also Iceland if I'm feeling rich one day.

place you'd never go back:
There's nowhere I've had a bad time and wouldn't go back to. There have been some very overrated touristy places that I wouldn't seek out again. There are so many cool places in the world that a somewhere I have been before would have to be something pretty special going on to lure me back. Big cities are the exception, as there are always new things to see if you like art and culture.

most memorable trip in 2 sentences or less:
I always have the best holidays in the US - there is such a diverse landscape, so much to do. I've been there many times but it still feels like I've only scratched the surface (if it weren't for pesky timezones I'd be camping out there like a shot). For pinch-yourself-amazing scenery, New Zealand - Wanaka and Golden Bay on the South Island - oh my! That's three sentences - is that allowed?

how do you prepare for a trip?
As my life and work are 'on the road', I am perpetually prepared for travelling. I have my Easyjet protocol totally down, including wearing five jumpers onto the plane to save weight allowance. I'm also blessed with a handy organisation gene, so I'm pretty on top of my arrangements, which can be fairly hectic.

When I decided to live and work 'location independently' three years ago, I sold off a lot of my clutter, so I don't have many things. I am, however, very lucky to have lovely parents who let me use some loft space for storing clothes, so when I'm back in the UK you'll find me rummaging up there dressing myself from cardboard boxes.

If in Europe, I travel on budget airlines, so my packing has to be very tight. I'll choose a selection of versatile clothing, a few pairs of shoes and a range of accessories - I love scarves as they can be worn so many different ways and change the look of a well-worn outfit.

how do you record your travels when you're traveling?
I always have a camera with me - so photographs. I've got more picky about what I take photos of recently, though - I'm not sure if that's a good thing or not. I set myself a goal at the start of this year to make a new piece of work at every travel destination. In Lisbon I made a series about an area of redevelopment alongside the city's estuary.

In the Czech Republic I made a small series with an old Czech camera I found in a junk shop and inspired by an inscription found on the wall of the apartment I lived in.

My boyfriend Dave also writes a blog about our travels which is a great record of our adventures. He's hilarious and (much to my envy as a writer myself), has a real talent for the words.

what is your favorite thing to photograph in a new place?
It really depends on the place. I used to photograph everything, but now I like to spend some time seeking out an interesting story and capturing something more meaningful. I of course still love a good tourist pic, though.

As I rent or sublet apartments longer term, I like to document the spaces I live on my travels. I'm interested in attachments we form with places and things; after a few days in someone else's space, I can feel perfectly settled. I've lived in such interesting places: an old furniture warehouse in Melbourne, a student house in Brisbane, lots of artists' homes, a beautiful apartment overlooking the castle in Brno, and a yogi's apartment in Stockholm to name a few.


on an average, how many pictures to you take on a trip?
I go through waves of productivity with my own photography. Sometimes I'll feel really inspired and confident, other times less so. I'm conscious of how the perpetual need to photograph what you're experiencing can actually detract from the experience though. I've done trips or been to events where I've had a camera glued to my face most of the time, so I've only really seen what's happening when looking at the photographs. So it's nice to sometimes put the camera down and enjoy the moment.

On a big day, maybe I'll take around 70. Others none.

what's in your "designer travel kit" ?
My MacBook, usually three cameras (digital and film), Kindle and Moleskine notebooks (containing a mixture of life-changing ideas, drawings and shopping lists). I also like to keep things old school with a paper diary.

what do you do after a trip? how long after a trip does this happen?
As I'm working whilst travelling, all my records of the trip are made as I go along. I like to spend a good amount of time each week on photo editing. I post new portfolio works to my photography website and keep a blog there too.


favorite souvenir/thing to bring back?
I like to bring back interesting stories and experiences rather than things. One night in Sydney I put Dave on the police missing persons list, so now it's always a bonus to bring him back with me too.
The only thing I collect on my travels are really special pieces of vintage clothing. All my favourite pieces are vintage, and I love that each one tells a little story about my travels. I always hunt out flea markets, and if I ever decide to call somewhere my permanent home, I'd love to furnish it with pieces from, say, the markets in Brooklyn, Vienna and Paris.


Links:

• Portfolio website: suzanneharrisonphoto.com
• Blog
• @susie_harrison on Twitter
  
  

Boarding Pass is a weekly column exploring the creative ways people travel. For past editions, check out the list of names in the column on the right!