Tour de France: Paris, 11ème – Lost in Cheeseland

{Les Petites Indécises}

After taking a look at the 9th, 20th, 14th and 5th, today we head towards the north east side of Paris where Lindsey of Lost in Cheeseland shows us around her neighborhood, 75011. Lindsey is an incredible resource for all things French, Paris and expat. As an American married to a Frenchman she’s experienced the city from all sides and shares her knowledge on her blog, and on Twitter. Here’s Lindsey!

When I first met my husband, he was already living in the Oberkampf area of the 11th. For a newcomer to Paris, the neighborhood seemed kind of like Brooklyn at the time – hipster, a little edgy, a balanced mix of cultures and more affordable housing. I resented the fact that we were far from the areas of the city that was of most interest to me at the time, notably the left bank, and therefore spent little time unveiling my quartier’s many layers. Well, aside from Bastille. Rue de la Roquette is appealing to young people (troublemakers included) with its endless rows of bars, restaurants, and even a few clubs. It’s loud, dirty and swarming with people at all hours of the day – all things I found exciting at first. But the novelty waned and I began to open my eyes to what was immediately around me. Since then, my part of the 11th (Oberkampf/Parmentier) has evolved greatly – we’ve got Le Chateaubriand, Le Dauphin, Al Taglio, Jeanne A, Soya, La Bague de Kenza, Café Charbon and my favorite local café, Les Petites Indécises. In close proximity to the Canal St. Martin and the Marais, it’s the perfect spot for me. That said, virtually all of my photos are of this end of the 11th as I venture rarely to the Bastille/Ledru Rollin side. I assure you, my village-like neighborhood has plenty to offer with few, if any, tourists.

Slightly retro building, green terraces look almost like elevators.

The freshly renovated Le Floréal, Mondrian style façade with matching wicker chairs. Unfortunately, the burger seems to have gotten a makeover as well but not for the better.

Looking up – Haussmannian architecture, crisp blue sky, avenue Parmentier.

Looking down my 5th floor apartment, stunning rays of sunlight post rainshower, just below is my favorite bakery. Incredibly retro on the outside and inside but the best multi-grain bread selection in the 11th.

Grilled swordfish at Les Petites Indécises

Les Petites Indécises – one of my favorite local cafés/restaurants. I go there not only to nurse a cup of tea, people watch and read on the terrace but for the more original lunch and dinner menu as well. They serve a nice brunch with a more affordable breakfast option if you’re not hungry enough for the 20€ fixed menu.

Quirky detail: ceramic tiles, usually pacman, smattered throughout the city. (Editor’s note: Space Invaders!)

Favorite place for a drink: Jeanne A – the gourmet épicerie from the Astier family is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine with one of their many cheeses on offer or even for a coffee and sweet treat. I’ve also gotten their chicken and gratin dauphinois to-go and it makes a much more balanced meal than baguette and cheese :)

Thanks, Lindsey!

Guest post by Lost in Cheeseland

@Lostncheeseland on Twitter



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